Shape it, Glass it, Surf it!

Selecting a Blank by Tim Stamps

One of the most important aspects in surfboard shaping is choosing the proper blank. This may seem a rather simple task at first thought, which is a pitfall to many beginning shapers. "Hey I'm shaping a 6'3", so just give me the 6'4" blank" is not necessarily always the case.

Before choosing a blank, several things must be considered. It is essential to know exactly what your shape is to be. The more information you have in your design "blueprint" the better and easier your choice in a blank will be. The main variables to address when selecting the proper blank are 1) rocker and length 2) volume and outline and 3) the density (weight) and stringer. The better these fit your intended design, the higher the probability of a successful project.

The first thing to envision is the length and rocker of the board you are planning to shape. It's best to have a mental picture of what you want your finished board to look like. It's even better to have some rocker measurements that you want to shoot for. Check the blank catalog to confirm the actual length of the blank and also keep an eye on what the natural rocker measurements are and how they flow from tip to tip. It's always wise to lay a tape measure on the blank to see what the actual "real life" length is. This does vary quite a bit. If possible, check the rocker either with a straight edge or if nothing else is available lay it on the flattest surface you can find and have a look at the nose and tail lift. Yes, this is pretty archaic, and volumes can be written in how inaccurate this may be, but it can give you an idea of what you have to work with. The blank closest in length to your finished shape might not always be the best choice. For example, you may want a board with less nose rocker. In that case you may want to choose something a bit longer so you can cut it back off the nose to get the desired nose lift. I always try and visualize the deck line of what I am planning to shape to the deck line of the blank.

Next, it is always important to make sure the blank you choose for the project has enough foam volume. Make sure there is plenty of center thickness, a proper amount of foam in the foil from nose to tail, rail to rail (cross sectional) foam volume, and enough outline area to get your desired plan shape. Once again consult with your design "blue print" to see what you need. Many of the blanks available are very close tolerance (low foam volume) and geared toward one type of shape. If you are planning on a full foiled, beak nose design for example, be sure that the ratio of the center to tip thickness will allow for all design considerations when you plane it to the desired thickness. Same goes for the rail volume in the design. Be sure to check the outline dimensions of the blank as compared to the intended outline of the board to be shaped. An outline that doesn't flow with the blank may be a cause for concern when it's time to cut out the plan shape.

Finally, it's time to choose what foam density and stringer fits the project at hand. There are many combinations to that you can choose from to get the desired weight and strength. If a high performance short board is the project, it's pretty obvious you will want a very light blank and thinner stringer to go along with a light weight glassing schedule. For semi guns, retro designs, and long boards the options are open as to what is important to the specific job. Think of what you want the strengths and weaknesses of the construction to be. On a long board it may be desirable to use a very dense (heavy) foam weight, oversize and/or multiple stringer set up, and a heavier glass schedule. With blank density and stringer options, the project can be fine tuned.

In sum, a successful execution of a design depends on the careful and deliberate selection of a blank that corresponds to the project "blue print". The proper selection process will include a suitable rocker and length, enough foam volume and width, and the choice of the blank density and stringer option. The blank closest to the finished length of the desired shape is not always the best choice. Not all of these variables may be available in an "off the shelf" blank. In that case, it's always best to work with someone who can order custom rocker, density, and stringer options. Remember, a surfboard blank isn't a surfboard, but a rough jumping off point to get started on shaping your desired design.

I hope this makes the selection of the proper blank an easier task. Taking a methodical approach may seem a bit overbearing at first, but will soon become second nature and the results will show. Feel free to give suggestions on topics you would like to see covered in future editions of this news letter.

Happy Shaping---
Tim Stamps
Stamps Surfboards
www.surfboardsbystamps.com

The Keys to a Solid Lam Job by Thomas Go'offe

You might not know this but the Laminating Coat could quite possibly be the most important strength component to your glass job. This is where it all begins! There are five key components:

1. Choosing the glassing schedule

There are million ways to skin a cat here but what is most important is to be sure the cloth combination is appropriate for the board you are building. The most common combo for a high performance short board is single four (4oz) bottom with a double four (4oz) deck. Stock long boards are traditionally glassed with single six (6oz) bottom with a double six (6oz) deck.

2. Cutting a smooth outline

Most people overlook this step as being an important one but it truly is. If you cut your cloth with a smooth line you can alleviate many pitfalls down the road. A smooth cut helps minimize the fibers from coming unraveled therefore helping to keep the overlap smooth.

3. Saturating the cloth thoroughly (including the rails) and working the resin in

The key here is to use enough resin to saturate the cloth entirely but not waste a bunch on the floor. The resin should be poured on the flats of the board and worked in with a squeegee angle of about forty-five degrees. This relatively flat angle gives you the ability to move the resin around and push it through the cloth. As you move it around the resin will drip off the rails, at this time you should drizzle the last of your resin above the rail line and use your squeegee as a backer to the hanging cloth. This will help to "wet out" the rails.

4. Extracting excess resin out and adhering the cloth to the foam

Now the task is to pull the excess out and insure that the cloth does not float above the foam. After your board is saturated in resin you will need to steepen the angle of the squeegee to approximately seventy-five degrees and methodically pull the resin back out. The idea here is to move the resin out from under the cloth in an attempt to adhere the cloth directly to your shaped blank. For high performance boards (light) you can really pull hard till you hear the cloth scream but be careful not to leave it too dry. Most other board styles don't require such an extreme extraction of resin. Once you've adhered the cloth to the flats of the board you will need to "wrap the rails". By this time the hanging cloth should drain a bit. Start from the middle and work your way out. Pull the cloth from the top of the rail under the board fairly tight and push your resin towards the stringer area.

5. Sanding the bottom lap completely flat

This step takes some time to master but is an invaluable step to creating a flat and highly bonded lam. First cut any hanging strands of cloth off with a sharp razor blade. Using white 80 grit sandpaper you will need to carefully sand the edge where the cloth meets the foam on the deck. The can be extremely touchy if you have an air spray in this area. Go slow and try very hard to sand only on the resin/cloth and not on the bare foam. If you have done a great job on step 4 "wrapping the rails" your task here will be minimal.

As you can see this is not rocket science but it does take some good instruction and gets better with experience. Each step is critically based on the next. Following these tips and using these professional secrets will help you in your first step to glassing your board. Spend time getting your lamination right and it will pay off in the long run with a strong and resilient surfboard.

Customer Name:
Ken Moore

Brand name:
Exotic Designs Surfboards

How was your initial experience at Foam E-Z?
It was good, low keyed and friendly.

Why did you want to build your own board?
I used to have HDX (cutting service) to do my boards for me, and I would always help at different stages and learn. As HDX grew and I learned more, I decided to tackle the craft on my own.

Shape of finished board?
The one I'm showing is a swallow tail fish. My 4^th board, start to finish.

Size of finished board:
6 Foot; 14" Nose; 20.5" Wide; 16.25" Tail; 2.5" Thick

What blank did you use?
Just Foam 6-9

How was your board building experience?
Enlightening.

Did you use videos, books, web, other?
Yes.

What videos, books, web, other did you use?
Just accumulated knowledge, verbal info from the Foam EZ guys, Grant, Rob and Brad. Brendon from HDX and swaylocks.com

Do you recommend these resources?
Yes definitely.

What do you wish you knew going into this project?
How to make resin color swirls; when you squeegee it the colors blend into mud color (not good). You have to pour the entire surface before pulling off the excess resin. When masking a cut-lap on foam to press the tape down with a plastic card (colored cut-lap bled a little). What's the best polishing technique.

What would you recommend to someone else for their first time?
Prepare before executing.

What tools did you find most useful?
Power planer, Surform, sand block, power sander.

Where did you run into trouble?
Sanding the hot coat, sanded through in a few spots, but I fixed them.

What kind of fin system?
Probox Fin Systems - quad fin box set up, twin keel fins installed.

Did you glass the board and what was that experience like?
Yes I did. It was my first resin color job. I wasn't sure what to do to achieve the effect that I was going for, but I got the bottom close and the deck mudded on me a little. All in all it came out good. The pin lines pulled it all together. The first guy who saw it, bought it!!!

What supplies were purchased from Foam E-Z?
Resin, fiberglass, tints and pigments, UV catalyst, regular catalyst, leash plug, polish, blank, squeegee, sanding pad.